Hi guys! I have a pattern review today.
I will be sharing my thoughts on the newly released Evie la Luve Jamie Pattern.
The Jamie Pattern actually has two views. You can choose to make a bodysuit or you can make separates: a bralette and panties. Since I wear bodysuits exactly never, I opted to make the separates.
Full Disclosure: Hannah sent me the pattern for free for pattern testing and feedback. All opinions are my own.
This post contains affiliate links.
Things I Did Differently
Before we begin, I want to list a couple of things I did that are different from the instructions. They are mostly minor changes.
- I derped and missed the instructions where you are to trim off 3/8″ of seam allowance on the bra waist bottom and the panties waist if you are making separates. It didn’t end up making a difference on me thanks to my long torso, but if you are making the pattern for the first time and you are unsure of the fit, don’t skip this step!
- I finished the panties cut outs with fold over elastic instead of picot elastic. These days I prefer the soft quality of fold over elastic to firm picot elastic.
- I attached the bra straps with the adjusters at the front of the bra because it has front strap extensions and I like having the adjusters at the front. This is a personal preference.
- I didn’t line the bralette pattern even though the pattern calls for a lining. My first sample is made from a fishnet mesh and I thought it would be super cool to retain its see through quality by leaving it unlined. The second and third samples are made from scuba, which is a very beefy and supportive double knit fabric. Since I wear a 30AA, I don’t need a lot of support so I left the bralette unlined because I didn’t want the extra bulk. I just pushed the seam allowances towards the center and topstitched and trimmed the seam allowance.
I actually ended up making three versions back-to-back and here are my notes and thoughts on all three.
Jamie Bra & Panties – Version One
The Jamie Bra – Version One
I have no prior experience sewing any of Evie la Luve’s bralette patterns so I’m not familiar with the sizing. I was fully expecting to make major alterations to the bralette pattern due to the following reasons. One, the smallest size, XXS, is meant for bust sizes 33 1/2″ – 34 1/2″. My full bust measures 31.5″. Two, the princess seams looked quite full to me and I wear an AA cup.
Since I wanted to be able to provide Hannah with feedback on her pattern as is, and not after I’ve pattern hacked it to oblivion, I went ahead and sewed up my first sample using a fishnet mesh with 60% horizontal stretch and 20% vertical stretch.
After finishing the sample, I tried it on. Holy crap. What is this magical pattern? The cups fit perfectly! This is pretty amazing to me, because 99.9999999% of the bra patterns I encounter are too full for me in the cups and I always have to pinch out extra fullness multiple times before I can get the fit I want. The back band is definitely big, but shortening it is a minor alteration. As you can see in the photo below, the back band is riding up the dress form’s back. She’s about a 28/30 band.
The other thing I want to mention is that the waistline of the bra hits me around 1.5″ from the bottom of my rib cage. On my PGM lingerie dress form, it sits just above the waist. I have a long torso so this is unsurprising to me. I don’t mind where the waistline is sitting on my rib cage, so I probably won’t be making any adjustments or alterations to lengthen the waistline.
The Jamie Panties – Version One
So I will have to admit that the Jamie Panties surprised me. In a good way. I loved the look of them when they’re attached as part of the bodysuit, but totally had reservations about wearing them on their own since I’m not a big cutouts person. They are surprisingly cute!
I do want to mention that getting in and out of them is a bit of a pain, especially if your hips are much wider than your waist. When I put them on, I have to adjust the waist strap so it can go over my hips and then I tighten them at the waist. When I take them off, I have to loosen the waist strap to get them over my hips. Because I’m all about efficiency, I added a G-Hook to the second and third versions of the Jamie Panties so it’s easy to get in and out of them!
In terms of fit, I cut the XS and they pretty fit well. The fit is consistent with the Frankie Panties. For reference, my hips are 35″. The waistline of the panties sit about 1/2″ inch below my waist. Again, this is due to my long torso and it doesn’t bother me enough to warrant alterations.
Jamie Bra & Panties – Version Two
After making my first Jamie set, I was excited to forge ahead with a second one to see if the cups would still fit if I used a different fabric. For the second Jamie set, I used a purple floral scuba from Mood Fabrics. The scuba has a 40% horizontal stretch no vertical stretch. The fabric is quite beefy and has a fluid drape. I made the Jamie Bra in a XXS again and the Jamie Panties in XS.
For the Jamie Bra, the cups end up fitting again and the only alteration I would make is to shorten the back band. As you can see on the PGM Lingerie Dress Form, the back band is only riding up a little for this version.
For the Jamie Panties, I added a G-hook to the waistline strapping detail so it’s easy to get in and out of the panties.
Jamie Bra & Panties – Version Three
To continue with my experiment to see if the cups will still fit if my fabric choice is different, I made a third Jamie set. I used a scuba knit with a lower stretch percentage. This scuba has 25% horizontal stretch and no vertical stretch. It also has more structure than the purple floral scuba that I used in Version 2. Due to the low stretch of the scuba, I was worried that the band would end up being too tight. I decided to use power net for the back band. I made an XXS for the bra and an XS for the panties.
The Jamie bra fits perfectly with no back band alterations needed!
The Jamie panties ended up fitting snuggly due to the 25% stretch. Next time, I will size up to a small if I’m using a fabric with 20%-30% stretch. I also added a G-hook to the waist strap so it’s easy to get in and out of the panties.
The Jamie Pattern: Things of Note
Here are a couple more things of note for the pattern:
- The pattern does not use a 1/4″ seam allowance consistently. For some parts, it’s 1/4″ and for others, it’s 3/8″. Ensure to read the directions carefully before sewing. I’m used to sewing lingerie patterns with 1/4″ allowance, so I would sew the seams with 1/4″ seam allowance and then go…wait a minute. That was supposed to be a 3/8″ seam allowance.
- You’ve probably noticed that I didn’t photograph the Jamie Bras and Panties together on the dress form. This is because the PGM Lingerie Dress Form has a short torso and petite proportions, so the bra waistline and panties waistline would overlap when I put them on together on the form. I’ve included two photos below to illustrate my point. As a heads up, if you are short torsoed or petite, you will most likely have to shorten the Jamie bra and panties’ lengths if you want to wear the two together.
The Jamie Bra & Panties – Sizing & Fit
The Jamie Bra
For the Jamie Bra, I personally can vouch for the following:
- I’m 5’7″, broad shouldered and long torsoed and I wear a 30AA. The XXS fits and the only alteration I need is shortening the back band.
- I had a friend who’s 5’3″, petite, and wears a 30C try the Jamie Bra on. The XXS fits her and the only alterations she needs is shortening the back band and shortening the waistline a little.
Hannah also mentioned that one of the other pattern testers wears a DD cup and the Jamie Bra fits her too!
I’m also getting quite a bit of requests from friends and family for the Jamie Bra, so I will continually update the above list of body types, bra sizes, and whether or not the Jamie Bra fits them and if alterations are needed. 🙂
The Jamie Panties
The fit is consistent with the Frankie Panties. Fits true to size according to the size chart for fabrics with at least 40% stretch.
In summation, I love the Jamie Bra pattern! I love its unique shape and strappy detail! I also love that the cups fit right out of the digital pattern envelope. It’s very likely that I will be making a few more Jamie Bras for myself–with a bit of pattern hacking of course. 😉
The Jamie Panties are also a welcomed addition to my panties drawers. I do prefer the the Frankie Panties for everyday wear, but these are a cool, modern take on a high waisted panties and it adds variety to my underwear collection. The only thing is, after wearing the panties for a while, I noticed that there was a bit of extra fabric pooling in the hollow of my back. This means I will have to make a sway back adjustment the next time.
And even though I didn’t make the bodysuit this round, I already have plans to make a one piece swimsuit using this pattern. I have a very long torso, so it’s impossible to buy a one piece bathing suit from retail. So stay tuned for a Jamie one piece swimsuit!
You can purchase the Jamie Pattern here.