This self-drafted bralette is based on a perennial Helmut Lang offering.
The asymmetrical cut and strappy detail are right up my alley and I can see myself making it in a range of colors and prints.
This version is actually my third make and the most wearable one. There are still a few small tweaks that I need to make to the pattern for my next iteration. The lining has a tendency to roll out at the front neckline, so I will tack the lining down in the next one. The diagonal strap is about 1/2″ too long in this version so I will shorten it further. The hem is also not level all around. Other than that I think the next iteration will be pretty much perfect. (Although I’m sure there’s always something I can improve on.)
As I make more and more bras for myself, I’m starting to see that I prefer bralettes to underwire bras. I used to think that my ideal bra is a no-fuss black T-shirt bra with a partial band design. I’ve since come to realize that I don’t fit a standard underwire size and I don’t really need the support that underwires provide. Instead, I’ve started indulging in sewing strappy bralette designs. This is another go at Jazz Ro’s free bralette pattern (found here).
So this iteration actually looks way better on the dress form than it does on me. There’s excess fullness and slight gaping at the front neckline when I wear this bralette. The previous iteration fits better, and it may have to do the fact that I did not trim the seam allowance before lining up the edges of the cups with the scallop edge of the lace so the finished cups are slightly bigger than the previous version’s.
Changes to the Next Iteration: Pinch out the front neckline slightly to prevent gaping. Reduce fullness of princess seams slightly.
A couple of weeks ago, a reader left a comment expressing interest in a tutorial on how to enclose all the seams on a Watson Bra. This method relies on using lining fabric to enclose and trap the raw seams on the inside.
So recently, I came across this free strappy bralette tutorial and it immediately went on my priority sewing list because I love, love, love strappy bralettes that have a edgy or cool look. I actually made this last Sunday and wore it twice this past week. I’m happy to report that it fits really well and will only need a few small adjustments to achieve the perfect fit.
Changes to the Pattern: The XS cups fit really well on me (size reference: 30AA/30AAA). I made the straps extending from the CF and the side shorter (5.5″ instead of 6″) and added a strap that went around the rib cage in addition to the usual bra band. I think it’s a good style for smaller chests and ladies who like the strappy bra look.
Today I want to share my preferred method of cutting out bra patterns (or any other patterns). I started using this method of cutting after observing how our in-house pattern-makers, cutters, and sample-makers cut their patterns.
For this method you will need:
Dotted Pattern Paper
Pattern Weights (optional)
You can use butcher paper or tissue paper instead of the dotted pattern paper. I prefer the dotted pattern paper because you can use the guidelines on the paper to align your pattern pieces to the fabric accurately.
I know I said I probably wouldn’t make any more Watson Bras for a while, but then another of my awesome co-workers announced that she’s leaving. AUGGGGHHH. :(((( Best of luck at your new job and stay in touch, KK. :<
This is another quickie sewing project for gifting purposes: a sorbet Watson. This will probably be my last Watson Bra for a while…time to focus on some selfish sewing for myself. I have a few back to basics sewing projects lined up that I can’t wait to work on!
The Watson Bra is the ideal quickie project when you’re looking to whip up a bra with minimal fuss. Here’s one in cream with aqua details that I made quickly for a co-worker who is leaving. Best of luck, C!
Here’s a quick weekend update with my latest bra project: a Marlborough Bra in Black and Silver Lace with Lilac accents. For this particular Marlborough, I adjusted the style lines of the cup. I eliminated the power bar and created a horizontal cup seam with split lower cups.
What do you think of this adjustment? Share in the comments below.
I took a long hiatus from my blog, because I was no longer sure about the content I was generating. It took a while, but I think I now know what direction I want to take this blog. In the coming weeks, you will definitely see a marked shift from a fashion blog to one focusing on the development of a core style with a strong DIY flavor.
Construction for this bralette style is very straight forward (made even easier by the fact that I eliminated the longline band). Unlike the original instructions, I opted to finish the top and bottom edges using fold-over elastic. I did not trim away any allowance before applying the fold-over elastic, so the bra has more coverage.
The only issue I ran into with this style is getting the side seams to lay flat on the body when worn. The side seams are stabilized with channeling, as instructed by the pattern so I’m not sure if it is a sewing issue or if the side seam needs more support in the form of soft boning.
If you have any ideas on how to get the side seams to lay flatter on the body, I would love to hear your suggestions.
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