Tips & Tricks: Enclosing the Seams of the Watson Bra

Watson Bra Enclosing Seams

A couple of weeks ago, a reader left a comment expressing interest in a tutorial on how to enclose all the seams on a Watson Bra. This method relies on using lining fabric to enclose and trap the raw seams on the inside.

Watson Bra Enclosing Seams

To start, pull out the outer cup and inner cup pieces. Treat the outer cup self and lining pieces as one unit. Treat the inner cup self and lining pieces as separate units instead of one. Sandwich the outer cup unit between the inner cup self and lining pieces and pin.

Watson Bra Enclosing Seams
Watson Bras Enclosing Seams

Sew the seam as you normally do and then edge stitch. As you can see, the raw seams are enclosed by the self and lining pieces of the inner up, leaving you with a clean finish.

Watson Bra Enclosing Seams
Watson Bras Enclosed Seams
Watson Bra Enclosed Seams

For the next step, you pretty much do the same thing. Treat the cups as one unit and the cradle self and lining pieces as separate units by sandwiching the cups between them as shown.

Watson Bra Enclosed Seam
Watson Bra Enclosed Seams

Set the cups into the cradle and then edge stitch.

Watson Bra Enclosed Seams

For the last part, treat the cradle as one unit and the back band self and lining pieces as separate units. Sandwich the cradle between the back band self and lining pieces and sew and edge stitch.

Watson Bra Enclosed Seams

Et voilà! All the seams on your Watson Bra are now enclosed. This method can be used on any bra as long as it is lined. Hopefully this tutorial makes sense. If you have further questions, feel free to ask in the comments below.

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11 Comments

  1. Hello! Thank you, that was very helpful! I’ve been trying to figure out a way to do this for a while. 🙂

    I have a question… did you use powermesh to line the cups and cradle? Also, what kind of elastic did you use to stabilize the lace edge of the inner cup?

    1. Hello! Most of the bras I make are on the smaller side so I don’t usually use power mesh for lining. I use stretch mesh. I use 1/4″ clear elastic to stabilize the lace edge. Hope that helps.

  2. Great tutorial, however I’m having difficulty attaching the center front of the bra where the point of the cradle and the neckline edge of the cups meet. I can’t seem to sew them in such a way that when the piece is flipped and the seams are enclosed on the inside that the front center isn’t warped out of shape. Any tips are appreciated, thanks!

    1. Hi Steph. When you insert the cups, do you make sure to to stop 1/4″ away from the center point of the cradle to account for the 1/4″ seam allowance? See this diagram for easy understanding: https://flic.kr/p/Hc8Mzo

      Amy of Cloth Habit and creator of this pattern also had a helpful post here showing that you have to stop 1/4″ from the center point when inserting the cups into the cradle. You can find that post here: http://clothhabit.com/watson-sew-along-inserting-bra-cups-and-elastic/

      If you’re working with particularly finicky fabrics, I sometimes sew them on one at a time. I will attach the cups to the self frame first and then add the lining frame after.

      Hope this helps!

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