My first complete sewing project for the year is this peter pan collar chambray number for a friend.
I find sewing for others to be a good exercise in fit. Everyone’s build is different and it challenges me to try new fitting techniques. In addition, it’s fun to create a garment that is unique to the wearer. I personally would not wear a peter pan collar dress, so it was an opportunity for me to draft and sew a style of dress that I would have otherwise avoided.
I’m pretty bad at taking WIP shots, but in terms of construction I chose to finish the inside with french seams. As a result, I did not put pockets in the dress. (Although I did find this nifty tutorial which allows for one to have french seams AND pockets simultaneously after I finished the project….) The armholes and neckline are finished with piping and then turned under and topstitched. The hem is done with a rolled hem foot.
Confession: This is my first time sewing a circle skirt…!
Cream Wool Top w/ Lilac Collar Materials Used: Leather (Collar), Wool (Shell), Silk Habotai (Lining) Design By: Tailor Made Pattern Drafted/Draped By: Tailor Made Construction By: Tailor Made
Pleather Leggings Materials Used: Pleather Design By: Tailor Made Pattern Drafted/Draped By: Tailor Made Construction By: Tailor Made
Fun fact: I actually drafted the top in Joy’s size so she would be able to keep and wear it after the show. This led to an interesting problem….
For the original look, we had paired the cream wool top with the tweed shorts. Visually, this pairing did not work for our model. Kat is long-waisted and she is significantly taller than Joy, so the waist line of the top comes up too high on her. The look could be salvaged if we had made the top longer to compensate for Kat’s longer torso length. Instead of sticking with this look, we switched the shorts out for the pleather leggings. We paired the tweed shorts with the leather vest as shown here.
I really like the top and have plans for making it in my size in the near future. I’m thinking cream leather collar on cream wool as well as black leather collar on black wool?
There is something unexpectedly delightful about pairing leather with tweed. It is like pairing two unlikely foods and getting a serendipitous explosion of flavors that complement each other harmoniously. Kind of like eating cream cheese with jelly (on a bread roll). In fact, I happen to think that cream cheese is jelly’s soulmate. (Sorry, peanut butter.)
Materials Used: Leather (Shell & Piping), Silk Charmeuse (Lining) Design By: Tailor Made
Pattern Drafted/Draped By: Tailor Made and Joy Construction By: Tailor Made
Materials Used: Silk Tweed Design By: Joy Pattern Drafted/Draped By: Joy Constructed By: Joy
This look was not in our initial design line-up. Instead, it is a byproduct of several last-minute design changes. Originally, the leather vest was supposed to be a leather jacket with long sleeves. We nixed the jacket idea, because we were not confident we would be able to design and sew an entire leather jacket (both of us never having worked with leather before). The tweed shorts were also meant to be paired with a different top.
I’ve come to realize that when designing pieces in a collection, one needs to embrace the possibility of making adjustments and changes. Not all of the designs will come out exactly as they appear in your head. Sometimes you may end up with an even more beautiful product by being adaptable and flexible.
Background: The University of Chicago Festival of the Arts is a week-long celebration of the arts on the campus. The student-run organization, FOTA, provides funding to students to work on creative and artistic projects and performances that are then showcased for the duration of the week. The Festival of the Arts opens with a launch party and fashion show which features the work of student designers.
I participated as a student designer for the annual FOTA fashion shows during my tenure as an undergrad. After graduating, I continued to partake in these shows by collaborating with my friend, Joy, who is still a student at the university.
We created a collection titled “Lilac and Leather”, which focuses on the interplay of soft and structural elements through the use of (p)leather, wool, and georgette.
From left to right: modeled by Lauren C., Heather Y., Katie B., Kat L., and Jenna B.
These are my two favorite looks!
Joy doing Heather Y.’s make-up.
Flowers from our model, Heather Y.
Don’t worry, Heather. We made good use of those tulips.
You can also find more details and pictures of the collection on Joy’s website here.
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