2015 is quickly drawing to a close, and I am already in planning mode for 2016! Thank you for an amazing year with Tailor Made Shop. I love reading all the positive feedback for my shop so far and I hope to improve it further in 2016.
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So Maddie kindly sent me a copy of her awesome bra pattern Sierra–thanks Maddie!–and I got the chance to make it up last night. It’s a really quick project and I have no doubt it will look good in a lot of fabric and laces! Expect lots of Sierras in the near future. 🙂
This self-drafted bralette is based on a perennial Helmut Lang offering.
The asymmetrical cut and strappy detail are right up my alley and I can see myself making it in a range of colors and prints.
This version is actually my third make and the most wearable one. There are still a few small tweaks that I need to make to the pattern for my next iteration. The lining has a tendency to roll out at the front neckline, so I will tack the lining down in the next one. The diagonal strap is about 1/2″ too long in this version so I will shorten it further. The hem is also not level all around. Other than that I think the next iteration will be pretty much perfect. (Although I’m sure there’s always something I can improve on.)
As I make more and more bras for myself, I’m starting to see that I prefer bralettes to underwire bras. I used to think that my ideal bra is a no-fuss black T-shirt bra with a partial band design. I’ve since come to realize that I don’t fit a standard underwire size and I don’t really need the support that underwires provide. Instead, I’ve started indulging in sewing strappy bralette designs. This is another go at Jazz Ro’s free bralette pattern (found here).
So this iteration actually looks way better on the dress form than it does on me. There’s excess fullness and slight gaping at the front neckline when I wear this bralette. The previous iteration fits better, and it may have to do the fact that I did not trim the seam allowance before lining up the edges of the cups with the scallop edge of the lace so the finished cups are slightly bigger than the previous version’s.
Changes to the Next Iteration: Pinch out the front neckline slightly to prevent gaping. Reduce fullness of princess seams slightly.
A couple of weeks ago, a reader left a comment expressing interest in a tutorial on how to enclose all the seams on a Watson Bra. This method relies on using lining fabric to enclose and trap the raw seams on the inside.
So recently, I came across this free strappy bralette tutorial and it immediately went on my priority sewing list because I love, love, love strappy bralettes that have a edgy or cool look. I actually made this last Sunday and wore it twice this past week. I’m happy to report that it fits really well and will only need a few small adjustments to achieve the perfect fit.
Changes to the Pattern: The XS cups fit really well on me (size reference: 30AA/30AAA). I made the straps extending from the CF and the side shorter (5.5″ instead of 6″) and added a strap that went around the rib cage in addition to the usual bra band. I think it’s a good style for smaller chests and ladies who like the strappy bra look.
Today I want to share my preferred method of cutting out bra patterns (or any other patterns). I started using this method of cutting after observing how our in-house pattern-makers, cutters, and sample-makers cut their patterns.
For this method you will need:
Dotted Pattern Paper
Pattern Weights (optional)
You can use butcher paper or tissue paper instead of the dotted pattern paper. I prefer the dotted pattern paper because you can use the guidelines on the paper to align your pattern pieces to the fabric accurately.
I know I said I probably wouldn’t make any more Watson Bras for a while, but then another of my awesome co-workers announced that she’s leaving. AUGGGGHHH. :(((( Best of luck at your new job and stay in touch, KK. :<
The McCall’s 5525 Trench Coat pattern has been sitting in my sewing stash for at least four years now, and I recently unearthed it in my search for good base pattern for a sleeveless trench topper. I used a light blue silk/cotton faille in my stash to make a mock-up and it turned out to be wearable so I finished it properly with a striped polyester lining.