Confession: This is actually the third bra that I’ve made. The first two will probably never see the light of day on the Internet because the sewing is pretty embarrassing. With that said, I present you the Marlborough Bra in plum.
The Marlborough Bra is designed and drafted by Norma of Orange Lingerie (a custom bra and lingerie business). This is my first time sewing this particular style and I’m in love with it. The cut is is what I look for in an everyday bra. The style lines make it really fun to experiment with different materials. I will probably be making a lot of Marlborough Bras in the coming weeks (spoiler alert!).
View from Westham Island Bridge during sunrise. Almost like a watercolor painting.
Firstly, I apologize for the lack of posts in the past two months. I disappeared into my workload for both work and school this summer and neglected to update regularly. (Fortunately, my summer attire is pretty uninteresting…I primarily live in soft tees and short shorts.)
My absence is also prolonged by aggressive, back-to-back trips out of town after an exhausting summer based in the city. One of my recent adventures is a week-long excursion to Vancouver, where I spent the first two days of the trip in a bra-making workshop at A Great Notion. I got the idea to take a bra-making class after seeing Tasia of Sewaholic post about her bra-making experience with Johanne Brousseau here. I struggle with buying bras that fit at the retail level, so I was definitely interested in taking up bra-making so I can customize the fit (and details, of course).
Initially, I checked for class options locally…and was surprised to find that New York did not have any offerings (or maybe my googling skills are questionable…?). I emailed the team at A Great Notion to see if they are offering the class again…and it turns out they are! I booked the class and decided to cross Vancouver off my travel bucket list at the same time.
My first complete sewing project for the year is this peter pan collar chambray number for a friend.
I find sewing for others to be a good exercise in fit. Everyone’s build is different and it challenges me to try new fitting techniques. In addition, it’s fun to create a garment that is unique to the wearer. I personally would not wear a peter pan collar dress, so it was an opportunity for me to draft and sew a style of dress that I would have otherwise avoided.
I’m pretty bad at taking WIP shots, but in terms of construction I chose to finish the inside with french seams. As a result, I did not put pockets in the dress. (Although I did find this nifty tutorial which allows for one to have french seams AND pockets simultaneously after I finished the project….) The armholes and neckline are finished with piping and then turned under and topstitched. The hem is done with a rolled hem foot.
Confession: This is my first time sewing a circle skirt…!
In addition to shoemaking, I’ve also decided to try my hand at making handbags. So far, I’m experimenting with simple tote shapes. My friend, Joy, is in the market for a basic tote so I offered to make her one.
Here’s a shot of the two primary materials used. The metallic leather is from Global Leather. Jot picked up the bunny print upholstery fabric when she was studying abroad in Paris. (As a side note, I did make a test tote out of faux leather first.)
For the straps, we decided on this contrast tan colored leather from the scrap bins at Global Leather. As you can see in the photo, I have not yet figure out how to achieve an industrial finish with the straps.
For the lining, I used the wrong side of the fabric. We thought the “X-ray Bunnies” looked rad with the metallic leather.
And check out that inner pocket. Here, I used the right side of the bunny print fabric. All in all, it was a good learning experience. For the next few projects, I might tackle something simpler. I’m thinking a zippered leather clutch.
Cream Wool Top w/ Lilac Collar Materials Used: Leather (Collar), Wool (Shell), Silk Habotai (Lining) Design By: Tailor Made Pattern Drafted/Draped By: Tailor Made Construction By: Tailor Made
Pleather Leggings Materials Used: Pleather Design By: Tailor Made Pattern Drafted/Draped By: Tailor Made Construction By: Tailor Made
Fun fact: I actually drafted the top in Joy’s size so she would be able to keep and wear it after the show. This led to an interesting problem….
For the original look, we had paired the cream wool top with the tweed shorts. Visually, this pairing did not work for our model. Kat is long-waisted and she is significantly taller than Joy, so the waist line of the top comes up too high on her. The look could be salvaged if we had made the top longer to compensate for Kat’s longer torso length. Instead of sticking with this look, we switched the shorts out for the pleather leggings. We paired the tweed shorts with the leather vest as shown here.
I really like the top and have plans for making it in my size in the near future. I’m thinking cream leather collar on cream wool as well as black leather collar on black wool?
A couple of months ago, I decided to take a beginner’s shoemaking class just to see how difficult it is to create a pair of shoes from scratch. I now have my answer: It is not at all difficult!
Caveat: Although there is nothing terribly difficult about the process, it should be noted that it is incredibly time consuming. Materials and labor costs can add up very quickly. In addition, those who do not have some sort of sewing or pattern-making background may find it hard at first to wrap their minds around the process of draping the pattern pieces and understanding how they go together.
The materials used for the upper are tweed and lambskin leather. I clearly have an obsession with both of those materials.
The bows were handcrafted with the same tweed material as the upper.
In case you were wondering: they don’t actually fit. I draped the pattern off a standard size 7.5 last (the shoe equivalent of a dress form) and I generally take a size 7.5 in shoes. I was not at all surprised when these ended up being roomy. I have extremely narrow heels, high arches and bony feet, so I often have trouble filling out shoes.
So far, I find that I really enjoy the craft, and plan on taking more classes. I will continue to work on standard shoe lasts until I’m ready to start crafting shoes for myself. For that, I will have to get a last custom made to my feet size. That is something I will eventually look into doing.
There is something unexpectedly delightful about pairing leather with tweed. It is like pairing two unlikely foods and getting a serendipitous explosion of flavors that complement each other harmoniously. Kind of like eating cream cheese with jelly (on a bread roll). In fact, I happen to think that cream cheese is jelly’s soulmate. (Sorry, peanut butter.)
Materials Used: Leather (Shell & Piping), Silk Charmeuse (Lining) Design By: Tailor Made
Pattern Drafted/Draped By: Tailor Made and Joy Construction By: Tailor Made
Materials Used: Silk Tweed Design By: Joy Pattern Drafted/Draped By: Joy Constructed By: Joy
This look was not in our initial design line-up. Instead, it is a byproduct of several last-minute design changes. Originally, the leather vest was supposed to be a leather jacket with long sleeves. We nixed the jacket idea, because we were not confident we would be able to design and sew an entire leather jacket (both of us never having worked with leather before). The tweed shorts were also meant to be paired with a different top.
I’ve come to realize that when designing pieces in a collection, one needs to embrace the possibility of making adjustments and changes. Not all of the designs will come out exactly as they appear in your head. Sometimes you may end up with an even more beautiful product by being adaptable and flexible.
Background: The University of Chicago Festival of the Arts is a week-long celebration of the arts on the campus. The student-run organization, FOTA, provides funding to students to work on creative and artistic projects and performances that are then showcased for the duration of the week. The Festival of the Arts opens with a launch party and fashion show which features the work of student designers.
I participated as a student designer for the annual FOTA fashion shows during my tenure as an undergrad. After graduating, I continued to partake in these shows by collaborating with my friend, Joy, who is still a student at the university.
We created a collection titled “Lilac and Leather”, which focuses on the interplay of soft and structural elements through the use of (p)leather, wool, and georgette.
From left to right: modeled by Lauren C., Heather Y., Katie B., Kat L., and Jenna B.
These are my two favorite looks!
Joy doing Heather Y.’s make-up.
Flowers from our model, Heather Y.
Don’t worry, Heather. We made good use of those tulips.
You can also find more details and pictures of the collection on Joy’s website here.
I once asked my sewing instructor, “Why do you want to teach people how to sew?”
He replied, “So you all can go out there and force a little bit of yourselves upon the world.”
Like many, I am drawn to the power of self-expression through dress. More specifically, I think that there is no more impactful way to express oneself than to be involved in the creation and construction process of the pieces with which you chose to define your style.
This blog will follow the development one’s personal style and document the pieces that I create for myself (or for others) in pursuit of that.