DIY: McCall’s 5525 Trench Vest

McCalls 5525 Trench Vest DIY Sewing

Pattern Used: McCall’s Patterns M5525

The McCall’s 5525 Trench Coat pattern has been sitting in my sewing stash for at least four years now, and I recently unearthed it in my search for good base pattern for a sleeveless trench topper. I used a light blue silk/cotton faille in my stash to make a mock-up and it turned out to be wearable so I finished it properly with a striped polyester lining.

McCalls 5525 Trench Vest DIY

I actually finished this trench vest back in March, but I only got around to taking photos of the finished product a few days ago.

McCalls 5525 Trench Vest DIY

Changes to the Pattern: I copied the pattern pieces for View E and changed all the seam allowances from 5/8″ to 1/2″ and from 3/8″ to 1/4″. I omitted the sleeves and brought the shoulder in by 1/4″ at the highest point to 0″ at the middle of the front and back armholes. I moved the pockets from the front princess seams to the side seams and made the pockets bigger. I shortened the length so that the finished trench vest measures 33″ from high point shoulder. I drafted my own belt and storm flap.

McCCalls 5525

Changes to the Next Iteration: Use a softer, drapier fabric with a good weight to it. I had envisioned the topper to be effortless and easy to wear. Add one more row of buttons. I think three rows look a little sparse. The collar and lapels feel and look ridiculously big, so I will probably make both smaller. I will probably take the shoulder in further. The hem is also a little flimsy so I will add horse hair canvas to add a bit of weight and body to the hem in the next iteration.


Attention to Detail: I added a contrast white piping along the front facings and the buttons were dyed to match.

McCalls 5525 Trench Vest DIY

Outfit Details
Tee: Mavi Jeans (similar here and here)
Vest: DIY McCall’s 5525 (similar here and here)
Pants: Aritzia (similar here and here)
Necklaces: DIY Skull Necklaces
Necklace: Marc by Marc Jacobs (in Rosegold here and in Silver here)
Shoes: Valentino (in nude here and in red here)
Ring: Daisy Knights
Bracelet: Fitbit Flex in Black

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