Today’s post features a self-drafted triangle bralette made from a poly floral charmeuse fabric. There were a number of new techniques that I wanted to try out and I kept that in mind while drafting the pattern.
For one, I had been wanting to make thin spaghetti bra straps. I don’t normally make my own bra straps since I have nice strapping elastics in my stash, but this floral fabric has a fantastic print and I wanted to use as much of it as possible.
Another new technique I had wanted to try was to create an elastic casing for the bra band. What I learned is that it is extremely difficult to make a narrow elastic band with clean finishing! I wanted an itty bitty 1/2″ band and it was impossible to encase the cups in the 1/2″ casing and then turn the bralette right side out. I actually tore the band fabric the first time I attempted to set the band.
Without going into too much detail (because there’s a tutorial forthcoming), I managed to set the band on my second try.
This is the first iteration of what I think will be a staple triangle bralette style in my closet. I envision that this style will work quite well with silky/satiny fabrics with slight stretch to them.
I also made the elastic too short…will add about 1″ – 1.5″ of elastic to the band when I make the second iteration.
This red/green/off-white lace is from a Merckwaerdigh Bra Kit that I bought a long time ago. I loved the lace so much that I actually bought two of the same kits so I could have more of this lace. I used some over a year ago to make this Watson Bra, and then I hoarded it away for a worthy project. I finally pulled it out from my stash this year to make this set.
The bralette pattern is the same as the balconette bralette styles found here and here. The hi waisted underwear pattern is the same as this pair here. The only change I made to the underwear pattern is to make the gusset narrower.
Bra Pattern: Self Drafted Underwear Pattern: Self Drafted
After making so many triangle bralettes, I wanted to try a new shape. Using my own measurements, I drafted this balconette bralette.
Unlike the other bralettes that I’ve made, this one is made with a non-stretch lace. It only has mechanical give, which means the front part of the bralette is pretty stable and doesn’t really stretch.
The back part of the bralette is made from stretch mesh so it can stretch around the body when worn.
The straps are set further apart than usual, like that of a balconette bra.
I have a special project for today’s blog post. Last week, Sarah of Ohhhlulu posted an announcement on her blog asking for pattern testers to test her new pattern collection. I was selected to make the Peridot Bralette & Bryony Knickers.
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In the meanwhile, I will leave you with photos of this cream triangle bralette. After two rounds of pattern modifications, I finally got the cups of the Merckwaerdigh Triangle Bralette pattern to fit me perfectly! Cheers. 😉
If anyone is interested, this is how you do this particular cup seam modification.
First start with the lower cup and power bar pattern pieces. Remove the seam allowance and elastic allowance.
Line the Lower Cup pattern up with the Power Bar pattern, matching the notch. Then draw a curve extending from the pattern notch as shown in red.
These are your new Lower Cup and Power Bar pattern pieces. (BTW, I’m not sure that piece is a power bar anymore. Can anyone with bra making expertise weigh in on what that piece is technically called? Side upper cup?)
Add the seam allowance and elastic allowance back and you are now ready to sew!
For this modified Marlborough Bra, I also decided to apply the bra channeling on the outside. I’ve seen it done on RTW bras, and I wanted to give it a try. The process is straight forward. Sew the bra cups into the frame with the seam allowance on the right side. Then apply channeling as you normally would on the right side of the bra. I thought this was a pretty cool technique.
Have you ever tried applying channeling on the right side of the bra? How did it go? Did you like the result?